The Fran BMS is basically the latest and best model available as far as I know. I think you should ask them why the 0x00FEF340 CAN messages could be missing (these are needed for the charger but also for the MC) while the 0x00FDF04x ones are present (these are for the individual cell voltage values displayed in the Diag software).

Question : in the Diag software do you see values displayed in the "Cell Voltages (Volts)" section in the last two rows "High" and "Low" ?

Your BMS is not sending the required values to the CAN bus. What type of BMS is it ?

Great you had the MC fixed, I assume the bike runs. Regarding the charging needless to say it is a very bad idea to exceed th 4.2V on any Li-ion cell. If the BMS talks to the CAN bus properly the values of the highest and lowest cell voltages should be displayed on the bottom LCD on the center display. Something like "hi 410" then "Lo 408". Without these the charger have no clue of the cell voltages and goes into "blindfolded" charging mode with constant 6A (60 km/h on the main display) which could lead to cell overcharging with the actual risk of thermal runaway.

It is pretty hard to damage the MC, as long as it has 100+ volts on the HV input terminals and the ignition pins (4 and 12) on J22 are shorted there is a good chance it will give the 12V DC. Even if you find an MC on eBay they tend to be quite expensive in the range of 300-500 EURs. If it is really broken might be better to fix it.In this case the first step would be to remove it from the bike and test it on a bench with 120V DC.

That is definitely a problem, should be fixed as the first step because this means the MC only has a few volts (maybe 30V if I am not mistaken) as high voltage input. Also these old NiMH batteries won't take you far, I assumed you would use Li-ion ref. your picture two weeks ago.

Does the "ignition" floating voltage on pin 12 falls to 0 volts when the ignition is on or the charging is started ?

"yes I did they are all ok"...The voltages or the fuses ?

That is bad new since it must be 12V (output of the MC 150V/12V DC-DC converter).

Do you have about 6V on pin 12 when the bike is turned off ? That is the "ignition" floating voltage which should go to 0 volts when the ignition key is on or the charging has started. Also 12V should show up in this case on pins 3,6,7,9.

Check the battery voltage, should be at least 100-110 V.

The sequence does not really matter.